Aphelion, Sagrantino, McLaren Vale, South Australia, 2015

Rob Mack and Louise Rhodes buy in grapes from top McLaren Vale growers for their artisanal wines, and this approachable beast comes from two rows of Joe Lopresti's vineyards near the sea. The fruit spends 12 months in one and two year old French oak hogsheads, and just 800 unfined and unfiltered bottles were made. Sagrantino is an Umbrian variety that is notoriously tannic, but this is surprisingly balanced and gentle, although still showing characteristic savouriness, chewy tannins, mineral dark berry fruit, powerful spice and brisk acidity. Rustic, tangy and impressive.