Berton Vineyard, Winemaker’s Reserve Vermentino, Riverland, South Australia 2022

The Berton family is famous for crafting stunningly priced treats, and this Robin Hood mentality has served them well. With a near-tropical nose, a sleek, saline-tinged palate and a crisp, pointy finish, the flavour puts my palate on a yacht in the Med instead of a rib in the Gulf of St Vincent. This is a genuinely accurate, delicious and insanely well-balanced wine.