Noon, High Noon, McLaren Vale, South Australia, 2017

Few rosé wines actually contrive to smell both of fruit and earth, but this delicate, pale russet-pink one does, with sweet peach scents and the scent of dusty soil after rain, too. On the palate it’s full, rich, mellow and saline, with ample soft fruit richness and creamy depths. The peaches are uninsistent, almost submissive, and the salty notes give the wine fine gastronomic aptitude. Heady, long, original, naturally articulated – and a true terroir rosé.