The Lane Vineyard, Gathering Semillon Sauvignon, Adelaide Hills, 2016

This tangy but taut blend skilfully walks a tightrope between tight citrus Sauvignon Blanc fruit and fatter Semillon. There’s a lovely iodine-tinged, smoky intensity, a hint of seaweed, and ripe tropical fruit. The 2017 vintage, also available, has more zesty freshness, but get the 2016 while you still can for its extra evolution and complexity.