Unico Zelo, Jade & Jasper Fiano, Riverland, 2017

Brendan and Laura Carter's cellar door is at their Gumeracha distillery in the Adelaide Hills, but the fruit for this superb Fiano comes from ancient, sandy limestone soils on the lauded Ricca Terra Farm in the Riverland, a specialist in alternative varieties. With 24 hours' skin contact it's beautifully creamy, nutty and full of tropical and stone fruit characters on a waxy, textural palate that shows great freshness and length. First class.