Wolf Blass, Black Label, South Australia, Australia, 1998

This highly acclaimed vintage has produced a cracker. Initially brooding, with time in glass this blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Shiraz and 5% Merlot unleashes a maelstrom of muscular but perfumed blackcurrant, blackberry and black cherry fruit. Seamlessly integrated creamy, mochachino oak (this wine spent 20 months in new French and American hogsheads) and ripe supporting tannins let the powerful, very persistent fruit do the talking. Terrific intensity and length.