Yalumba, The Virgilius, Eden Valley, South Australia, 2017

Ironically you’d think this was the Old World wine if you compared it with Laurent Miquel’s Verité (above), though winemaker Louisa Rose has spent a lifetime working with the variety. There’s that almost overripe apricot flavour of a Condrieu. Takes time to reveal its character and complexity – you could even decant it. And serve it in a Burgundy glass.