Dal Zotto, Pucino Col Fondo, King Valley, Victoria, 2014

The traditional (yet rarely seen) col fondo style of Prosecco is when the wine undergoes its fermentation in bottle. Unlike traditional-method sparklings the lees aren't disgorged, so the wine remains cloudy with sediment. Additionally, there is no dosage and a lighter fizz – quite opposite to the majority of harshly bubbly, sweetly commercial Proseccos. This has lipsmackingly tart green apple notes and citrus zing on a firm, refreshing, textured palate. Long and stylish, from the family that planted Australia's first Glera vines.