Alkoomi, Black Label Riesling, Frankland River, 2017

Alkoomi is one of Western Australia’s largest family-owned and -run wine producers. Sandy and Rod Hallett’s vineyards are on gravelly loam soils, and grapes for this Black Label Riesling come from the oldest vines, planted in 1971, through to the the most recent (2003). The free-run juice from each parcel is fermented separately then blended. Roger Jones: Precise, with a touch of spritz that will diffuse with age. The pure, focused minerality is like a wet sea breeze. A delicate wine that will evolve well, yet is already very good; I’d love to see it in a decade. Sarah Knowles MW: Tight white peach, lemon and lime fruit with bright acidity. This has real vibrancy, precision and direction. A great wine with great potential. Anthony Rose: Fine, intense citrus fragrance, with a hint of spice and a floral note. The fruit quality is still youthful – elemental and yet to unfurl – but there’s a firm spine of acidity behind that lengthens and broadens the palate, leading to an appealingly dry finish.