Rainer Wess, Ried Weinzierlberg Ungrafted Grüner Veltliner, Kremstal, Austria 2017

This is a revelation, a totally different expression of Grüner to that most of us are familiar with. From one of the oldest vineyards in Kremstal, the wine is made in a Smaragd style, and has real concentration, structure and length. Firm peach flavours and also some nutty, spicy evolution adding complexity. A treat.