Cave Spring Cellars, CSV Traditional Method Blanc de Blancs, Beamsville Bench, 2009

With six years of lees-ageing prior to disgorgement, this traditional-method, single-vineyard Chardonnay has classically teasing scents of bready citrus. On the palate there’s huge drama here with its plunging, searching acidity and driving apple and lemon flavours (malolactic was blocked). This vintage is only available at the winery, but one must hope the cultured Cave Spring team have been secreting away larger quantities of subsequent vintages.