Errazuriz, Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve, Aconcagua Valley, Chile 1984

You might have thought that Chilean Cabernet can’t go the distance, but this 35-year-old wine proves otherwise. It’s certainly mature now, in an old school Bordeaux style. It's pale-hued with a bouquet of bark and ceps, while the palate is pleasantly elegant and refined, with fading fruit, gentle undergrowth, minerals and tobacco leaf. This delicately structured wine was ‘pre-Parker’, so it’s only 12.5% and has retained its freshness well, making it very very drinkable. It’s not going to get better, but should plateau for a few more years if correctly stored.

This was the first vintage of Don Max to be released and, 40 years on, it remains fresh and nuanced, with a broody smoky edge adding depth and complexity. Filigreed, detailed nose, with savoury complexity over a thick layer of dried black fruit. Notes of prune, dried fig, red apple peel and intense cassis mingle playfully. The palate retains incredible freshness and definition, with chocolate, tobacco leaf and mocha over prune, dried black olives and cocoa nibs. Tannins are velvety and fine-grained yet assertive, supporting the long refreshing finish. Drinking beautifully.