Maycas del Limarí, San Julián Pinot Noir, Limari Valley 2017

I remember visiting this blustery, arid vineyard before it was planted – winemaker Marcelo Papa was excited even then. Limarí is sunny, but while this is a muscular, dark-fruited, effusive style of Pinot, it’s also fine-textured, graceful, grippy and savoury. Think: Chile’s answer to Central Otago.