Ante Sladić, Lasina, Skradin, Dalmatia, Croatia, 2021

The rare local variety Lasina, or the ‘black rose’, comes from 40-year-old vines at the top of the hill in Sladić's estate vineyard. It spends one year in oak and another one to two in bottle. Its purity and precision are unlike any red wine I've tasted in Croatia, almost evocative of Burgundy with its light hue and soft, fine tannins. Such delicate aromatics of rose, lavender and violet with a hint of pine bough and blood orange. Its elegance is undeniable. There is a transparency and clarity on the palate. Pinpoint savoury framing around the tart and fresh red fruits: cranberries, raspberry leaf, tart notes of blood orange and freshly muddled mint leaf. The finish is airy and gossamer, with hints of white pepper and green tea. What an impeccable worldly wine from this finicky, ancient local grape.