Prović, Naron Chardonnay, Neretva, Dalmatia, Croatia, 2021

The Naron is an exquisite, reserve-level Chardonnay from Prović, who pioneered the variety here in Dalmatia as a homage to local icon Mike Grgich, whose iconic American Chardonnay put California fine wine on the map back in 1976. This sur lie Chardonnay sees one year on the fine lees in acacia barrel. Winemaker Vjeko decides in the vineyard which blocks will go into acacia—decadent aromatics of honeyed apricots, candied ginger and a note of ocean air. The palate shows an intensity with lemon oil, smoky grilled lemon peel and a mineral briny sea water edge. Vjeko Prović takes a reductive approach to winemaking, which makes this Chardonnay glisten with concentration.