Château de Fargues, Sauternes, Bordeaux, France, 2015

It's been a few years now that Fargues has really stood out for its elegance and perfectly-pitched edgy acidity. If Sauternes was a more popular appellation and wine style, this would have queues round the block. As it is, for Sauternes lovers, it's a steal. Lemon rind, orange blossom, soft white truffle, a twist of steel.

Marked by a fairly prominent oakiness now, this is rich and creamy, very concentrated, with sumptuous apricot fruit. There’s just the right balance between opulence and precision, so this has great potential, with admirable persistence.