Château Gaby, Canon-Fronsac, Bordeaux, France, 2012

Cassis notes on the nose and palate. Oak present. Drying finish but fruit behind. Awkward at the tastings and possibly worth a higher score.

Gaby has been through many changes of ownership recently, and the owner since 2016 is American Thomas Sullivan. I find recent vintages porty and unbalanced, but this 2012 is impressive. There are dense black fruits on the nose, while the palate is rich and suave, with ample concentration, fine-grained tannins, and impressive density of fruit. Oaky, spicy, and complex, it has a long, zesty, harmonious finish.