Château La Grande Maye, Côtes de Castillon, Bordeaux, 2003

Look beyond the hot vintage and lesser-known name to a fabulous wine at a great price. This is your Christmas claret bargain – as long as you appreciate sturdy, carnal, autumnally mature Bordeaux that speaks (eloquently) with a thick country accent and makes a fine match for game. I’ve tasted this, and the excellent 2004, several times lately, and my reaction is always the same: tuck in.