Château Penin, Grande Sélection, Bordeaux Supérieur, 1998

This has a russet edge to the rim of the wine in the glass indicating age straight away. Such an evolved nose here; savoury and vegetal with mushroom and leather notes but still with a vibrant aroma of blackcurrant fruit despite being 22 years' old. Generous tannins make their presence known straight away on the tongue but then comes the fruit flavour around the sides of the mouth, dark and clearly aged - taking on a savoury and meaty side but still with vitality. The ending is long and almost perfumed. Finessed and elegant with evident charm. A great time to drink this and enjoy with a lovely roast beef dish.