Marks & Spencer, Collection, Margaux, Bordeaux, France 2020

Margaux fifth-growth estate Château Dauzac regularly punches above its weight for the price, as it does here in this blend for M&S's premium Collection range, which has a little more Merlot (45%) than the usual grand vin. It's a classy wine that tastes of its origins, boasting old-vine fruit, fine tannins and cedar freshness from quality new oak barrels. Hints of burnished leather and savoury exotic spices join plush cassis and dark plums through a lingering finish. Hitting its stride now but will keep well for a decade to come.