Domaine Laroche, Chablis, 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre, 2015

This west-facing stony site is well drained and gives wines with good extract and staying power, and is often cited as one of the top premiers crus. The nose is more subdued than that of the Vaillons, but nonetheless it shows juicy apple and apricot aromas. The palate is rich and full-bodied, weighty and almost fat - a risk in this ripe vintage. But the power is cut by the acidity that creeps up on the mid-palate. There's minerality too, but on the whole this is on the weightier side of the spectrum. Quite long.