Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Bourgogne Aligoté, Burgundy, 2014

While most producers have turned their back on Aligoté in favour of Chardonnay or Pinot Noir, Pataille is championing the grape and is now making some excellent single-vineyard wines. Here, the nose opens up to crisp apple fruit with a mineral core. It’s unassuming but full of energy and with a real sense of place. The ageing in old 500-litre barrels adds roundness and complexity.