Olivier Leflaive, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy, 2017

It’s almost impossible to split Le Montrachet, Chevalier- and Bâtard-Montrachet. Whichever you are drinking, it will almost certainly be both stunning and eye-wateringly expensive. Chevalier-Montrachet, located higher up the grand cru slope, delivers additional finesse and lift compared to the more powerful, weighty style of Bâtard. Austere on the nose, with amazing intensity, length and the ability to balance muscularity with finesse on the palate, this soaks up the oak and will age for decades. Oliver Leflaive, along with winemaker Franck Grux, has driven up quality at this domaine in recent years. From a 0.2ha parcel on poor, marly limestone soils in the centre of the grand cru.