Armand de Brignac, Ace of Spades Gold Brut, Champagne

This is a three-way assemblage: three grape varieties – and equal percentage of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with 20% of Pinot Meunier – and a blend of 3 vintages, 2009, 2010 and 2012. The nose is full of flavours and rich with notes of white flowers and crème patissière. However, the palate is crisp, fresh and delicate with a lovely creamy texture. It is elegant, refined and very stylish (unlike the bottle!). It’s a pleasant combination of power and concentration blended with finesse and elegance. While the dosage is 9g/l, it feels much drier, more like a 5g/l and this probably due to the spinal cord of acidity.

By far the most voluminous of an admittedly modest range, quantity wise, this golden flagship is a blend of 2012, 2013 and 2014, relatively recently disgorged and dosed at 9 g/l, the liqueur de tirage the only component which has been oak aged. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir share the honours, the balance of 20% made up by Pinot Meunier. Beyond the green gold hue and persistent mousse there is an impressive vanillin richness, hints of acacia and buttered toast; ripe semi-tropical fruit is grounded by soft chalk, powdery yet discrete. The finish needs a little more time to settle; there is energy, which will soften, and power which will underwrite an impressive development over the next couple of years.