Castelnau, Blanc de Blancs, Champagne, France, 2003

An impressive and surprising fizz from the warm Champagne de Castelnau Blanc de Blancs 2003 vintage. The 100% Chardonnay fruit comes from crus on the Montagne de Reims (Trepail, Ludes, Villers-Marmery, Verzy, Tauxierre and Rilly) and a number from the Cotes des Blancs, including Chouilly and le Mesnil-sur-Oger). It certainly has bags of personality, aroma and flavour. Nor is it short on acidity. Having spent eleven years on the lees, there’s a compote of creamy, hazelnut, candied citrus fruits and a dry, toasty, savoury finish. Fresh, balanced and expansive, this has real length and texture. Delicious now and for the next four years. Sadly, only 11,000 bottles were made.