Castelnau, Hors Catégorie, Champagne, France

The discreet Argonne oak gives scents of delicate spice, vanilla, toast then red stone fruits, smoke and cocoa. This cuvée is made from a third each of 2008, 2009 and 2010 and the palate has the austere power of '08, the grace of '09 and the firmness of '10. The gentle mousse opens up the citrus flavours mingled with orange peel. Fine ripe tannins, a gift of climate change and a lovely finale of mirabelle plum and apricot. Stylish mid-weight, yet long. Consummate assemblage by cellar mistress Elisabeth Sarcelet.