Deutz, Cuvée William Deutz, Champagne, France, 2002

This wine is a blend of 55% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Meunier, this is a benchmark 2002, which shows little sign of ageing. Partly what attracts me to it are its various contradictions. For instance, the way it is supremely structured but also so light on its feet. Equally, it is beguilingly generous but also winningly fresh and vivacious. It has a broad palate spectrum encompassing pain grille, citrus, nougat and minerals in one very subtle, serious and accessible package. It is just beginning to drink now and will age for another 20 years with consummate ease.