Geoffroy, Empreinte Premier Cru, Champagne, France, 2012

Made from the two red varieties on early-ripening plots in Aÿ, these premier cru grapes are fermented in a combination of roughly 20% stainless steel and 80% oak barrels of various sizes. There's no malo here, which works really well to give lift to the fruit. It displays fresh, sparkling green apple and spice flavours with a doughy, creamy background. Steely and super-bright, drink this with food or cellar it for a few years.