Gosset, Grand Blanc de Blancs, Champagne, France

A hint of chalk appears even before subtle notes of autolysis become apparent. The slender palate comes with disarming freshness and poise, revealing edges of fresh lemon, subtle patisserie, more chalk and richer hints of lemon oil. Precise in character with a very fine mousse, and so long.

Gosset is Champagne's oldest producer, founded in the 16th century, and this blanc de blancs takes advantage of its well-established connections by sourcing Chardonnay from 15 different villages. The base wines are aged on lees after the primary fermentation but malolactic fermentation is blocked in order to retain the house's characteristic zinginess. The result is prickly, saline, lemony and tight, with some mouth-puckering apple, citrus and herb flavours. Light and focused, there's a touch of nuttiness on the finish. A great food wine, it could do with some additional time to mellow if you plan on drinking it on its own.

The most subtle lemony cloud hovers above a certain chalkiness on the nose. Utter subtlety also characterises the super-svelte palate that is as light as a feather, yet conveys great depth and creamy softness. The freshness seems buffered by chalk, the mousse serves to remind you that this is actually Champagne, so breezy, so light, so elegant is this. A wonderful combination of depth and weightlessness.