J Dumangin & Fils, Premier Cru, Champagne, France, 1993 (disgorged April 2007)

Disgorged April 2007 Run by Gilles Dumangin, who has been in charge for the last 10 years or so, and is generally credited for raising the quality at this small, family-owned house to the point where its Champagne was served at former Beatle Paul McCartney’s recent wedding. Although occasionally a gem can be found in these cellars, there have been more failures than successes among the more mature vintages, and the 1993 was not at all impressive when released, so if any Outstanding designation listed on these pages was a surprise, it must be Dumangin. Made by Gilles’ father Jacky Dumangin, this is a blend of 54% Chardonnay and 46% Pinot Noir, with a dosage of 10g/l.