Louis Vertay, Brut, Champagne, France NV

M&S's vintage Champagnes from Delacourt are always reliable, but for a non-vintage buy this stands out. Half the blend is Pinot Meunier, giving round red berry and red apple flavours that are enlivened by beautifully crisp, cleaning acidity and a vibrant mousse. Toasty, nutty autolytic notes give some complexity too. At this price, Champagne needn't be just for a special occasion.

The tricky 2017 vintage forms the base of this non-vintage (a crisp red apple-driven blend with 50% Pinot Meunier), but the 35% of reserve wine used, as well as richness from full malo and nougat-like lees notes, ensures this popular Champagne is a reliable as ever.