Château d'Arlay, Côtes du Jura Vin Jaune, Jura, France, 2010

This beautifully labelled wine, from a property formerly owned by Moët visionary and French Resistance hero Robert-Jean de Vogüé, is mid-gold in colour, with a sweeter, creamier scent than its peers and a touch of honeysuckle charm. Don’t be misled, though - on the palate it’s a loosed arrow: pure, long and incisive, with more elemental Savagnin character than many others, modulating near the end of the palate towards umami and nuts. Comte Alain de Laguiche, the present owner, talks of its ‘droiteur et pureté’; an accurate description.

This beautifully labelled wine, from a property formerly owned by Moët visionary and French Resistance hero Robert-Jean de Vogüé, is mid-gold in colour, with a sweeter, creamier scent than its peers and a touch of honeysuckle charm, too. Don’t be misled, though: on the palate it’s a loosed arrow: pure, long and incisive, with more elemental Savagnin character than many of its peers, modulating towards the end of the palate towards umami and nuts. Comte Alain de Laguiche, the present owner, talks of its ‘droiteur et pureté’: an accurate description.