Domaine Chevassu-Fassenet, Côtes du Jura, France, 2015

You can tell this isn’t a run-of-the-mill commercial white wine by looking at the label, which looks like a throwback to a bygone age. One sniff of the golden liquid and you’ll see it ploughs its own furrow stylistically too. Bone-dry, and made in an oxidative style, it’s 100% Savagnin, nutty, Sherry-like and textural, almost with a bitter edge, and with marked aromas of windfall apples. There’s a vitality to this wine, which captivates.