Cave de L'Ormarine, Cuvée Estela, Picpoul de Pinet, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 2022

The Ormarine co-operative produces some 40% of all Picpoul de Pinet, so it knows what it's doing. This is at the more complex and interesting end of the spectrum, but is super drinkable nonetheless. Lees contact, increasingly common in the region at the higher end, gives it more weight and textural interest, but you still get the vibrancy and lively freshness that you expect from the style, with tangy and juicy lime citrus zestiness and a hint of green pepper crunchiness. Great seafood wine. Mix-six price: £11.99