Château Capion, Le Chemin des Garennes Blanc, 2016

Capion, says Claude Gros, is 'an extraordinary white-wine terroir'. This, the second white of the estate, is 90% young vine Roussanne blended with 10% Bourboulenc and a tiny seasoning of Viognier, whole-bunch pressed and given 10-15% barrel fermentation. Aniseed, fennel and strawberry aromas combine to make a distinctively southern, aromatic scent. On the palate the wine is fresh and lively, with a vigorous salty-acid balance which gives it a crunchy force. There are intriguing peach and quince fruits too. This vintage had a blocked malo, which adds to its intensity and impact; the team are considering putting subsequent vintages through malo to ease that edgy balance back a bit and give the wine more vinous depth: surely a good idea.