Gérard Bertrand, Picpoul de Pinet, Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 2022

Some Picpoul de Pinet produced at scale can be dilute and watery – a victim of its own success as winemakers jumped on the bandwagon to cash in on the demand for the wildly popular style, not all of them prioritising quality. Not this one. Former rugby international Gérard Bertrand has built a reputation for producing good-value southern French wines, and this Picpoul shows impressive concentration for the price, bone-dry, juicy and fruit forward, with rounded lemon-drop flavours and refreshing acidity. Perfect to accompany shellfish and seafood.