Laurent Miquel, Larmes des Fées, St-Chinian, 2014

This beautifully labelled, deeply coloured Syrah-based wine is grown on the limestones of Château Cazal-Viel, the largest single wine-producing property in the zone - 140 planted hectares, with 64ha of AOC plantings and even more planted to IGP varieties, especially Viognier. This is a sumptuous, lavishly rich wine from top to bottom, with sweet plum and prune scents and exciting, generously fruity plum, blackcurrant and damson flavours. It's concentrated and full-throttle, with its 18 months in new oak adding extra layers – but there is plenty of limestone finesse to the wine as well, and a totally satisfactory structural and textural presence. The 2014 vintage has left its fresh hallmark on the fruit, but without any green tones. A commanding effort.