Lidl, Les Figuerettes, Picpoul de Pinet, 2017

The trouble with Picpoul de Pinet is that it's such a gamble – there are so many neutral, watery versions around. This one has a surprising amount of character for the price, with the tangy, lemon zest freshness that you hope for, and a lick of salinity. Perfect on a summer's eve with a plate of seafood – sip it and pretend you're somewhere on the Mediterranean coast!