Paul Mas, Réserve Viognier, Languedoc-Roussillon, France 2021

A new listing at Tesco, and part of Paul Mas' Reserve Single Collection range, this has far more character than the Paul Mas Languedoc Blanc, also sold by Tesco, and at the same price. The Viognier grapes come from 15- to 25-year-old vines planted on hill slopes, on chalky clay soils with fossils. There's a lovely balance here: lively peach aromas and flavours, and white floral fragrance, but also a ripe roundness from the subtle oak influence – 20% of the wine underwent malolactic fermentation, and 15% was fermented in new French oak before several months' ageing in oak. Easy drinking and expressive.