Arnaud de Lassalle, Hauts de Perrière Pouilly-Fumé, Loire, France 2019

Exclusive to Waitrose, this elegant expression of Sauvignon Blanc is subtly smoky, with herbaceous and green pea notes. The chalky soils and Kimmeridgian marl of the Pouilly-Fumé appellation are known for producing restrained Sauvignon Blancs with typically a flinty and grassy note. You certainly get that here, with citrussy freshness. Five months on the lees in stainless steel before bottling gives it a texture and weight that make it supremely food-friendly.