Château de Coing de St Fiacre, L'Ancestrale Monnières Saint-Fiacre, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, Loire, France 2015

This is a fascinating wine, a Muscadet with seven years of age. The first crus (known as crus communaux) were established in Muscadet in 2011; there are now 10 in total. Wines from the Monnières Saint-Fiacre cru are required to age for a minimum of 24 months. The fruit for this wine came from 100+ year-old vines, and was given 24 hours' skin contact before pressing; the wine was aged for four years on lees before being bottled at the end of 2018. Winemaker Véronique Günther-Chéreau grew up on the estate, and her family has been making wine here all the way back to 1421. Incredible value for money at under £20, it's a complex wine, spicy in the glass, with a soft florality, dry depth and attractive waxiness. It has structure and freshness and real interest – if the only Muscadets you have tried are the young, crisp and simple, this will be a revelation.