Château de la Mulonnière, L'Effet Papillon, Savennières, Loire, France 2015

New on the shelves at only some Waitrose stores (but also at Waitrose Cellar online), this is a real wine lover's wine. A dry Loire Chenin Blanc with eight years of age under its belt, this is all about complexity and evolution, not primary fruit. The grapes were hand harvested when they were overripe, and skin contact maceration took place for 12 hours before fermentation in oak casks and stainless steel, and seven months in stainless steel. Golden in the glass, this shows its age deliciously, with notes of hawthorn, hay, dry honey, nuts, and some white peach, all lingering on the finish. Structured, and full bodied despite the modest alcohol, this is a bargain at under £20. Enjoy it with simply prepared fish or roast chicken, and let the wine be the star.