Château Moncontour, Vouvray Brut NV, Loire, France

The historic Château Moncontour was built by Charles VII in the 15th century and sits on a ridge above the Loire river, in the heart of Vouvray. This thoroughly modern fizz is made by the traditional method, from Chenin Blanc grapes grown on chalky and clay soils. Only the free-run and first-press juice is used, and the wine spends 14 months on lees before being disgorged with 11g/L residual sugar, just below the upper limit for Brut. Ripe, windfall apple aromas leap from the glass, continued on the palate, which is mellow and long, with hints of brioche and fresh acidity. Good value Champagne alternative.