Famille Lieubeau, Clisson, Muscadet, de Sèvre et Maine, Loire, 2015

For great value and relatively under-explored white wine, look to the cru communes in Muscadet – and chiefly the southerly cru of Clisson, home of this textured, highly interesting wine. A soft, floral nose with grapefruit and marzipan gives way to a fresh, bone-dry palate with piercingly mineral lemon notes and a rich, savoury nuttiness. Complex, aromatic, delicious.

François Lieubeau says this wine is ageing like a Chablis, but to me it is ageing like a fine Muscadet. Aged for 24 months on lees, this golden wine has round, open, peachy fruit allied to a chalky texture. Showing a light patina of age in its gently nutty aromas, it is ageing beautifully, with an integrated vein of acidity running through it and an attractive sweet and sour quality. The long finish recalls lime, pear, lemon and smoke.