Pascal Jolivet, Blanc-Fumé, Loire, France, 2020

Pascal Jolivet has made this Pouilly-Fumé for 25 years but in this vintage has rebranded it as Blanc-Fumé, to avoid consumer confusion with Pouilly-Fuissé (Chardonnay from the Mâconnais sub-region of southern Burgundy). Flint is the principal terroir at play here, with vines grown along the right bank of the River Loire. This is quite ripe in style, fruit forward with zingy lemon peel, white flowers and some smokiness. Juicy and pure with a long finish, and almost a suggestion of tropicality. Would be perfect with tuna steak, salmon or sashimi. Bottled with a very low level of sulphur.