Poiron Dabin, Muscadet, de Sèvre et Maine, Loire, 2009

A rich and smoky nose amplified by a touch of brioche, leading into a powerful palate with a broad texture. A clear demonstration of how a cru wine can be very different from 'normal' Muscadet. A maturing rich fruit character, in unison with a minerally backbone fuelling a pithy grip on the long finish. An impressive, thought-provoking wine.