Domaine la Collière, Les Bergeronnettes, Côtes du Rhône, 2017

You might be wary of a 2017 generic Côtes du Rhône blanc, but this comes from hand-harvested old vines grown on good Rasteau terroir, with one third fermented and matured in demi-muids. It’s taken on a dry hay and lanolin edge now, but still has good vibrancy and life on the palate. In a good place now; far from over the hill, but pleasingly mature.