Rotem & Mounir Saouma, Inopia, Côtes du Rhône Villages, 2014

This wine’s majority component of Grenache Blanc is complemented by Bourboulenc, Marsanne and Roussanne. Like its red counterpart, it sees 18 months on lees in both 500-litre casks and concrete eggs (though not foudres). There’s great aromatic presence here: milled grains and grain dust, crushed aniseed, fennel and apricot juice. On the palate the wine is supple, soft, glycerous and rich, the sweet fruits blended with something faintly salty and green; a smack of seaweed. A deep, firm and clearly over-achieving white Rhône.