Rotem & Mounir Saouma, Magis, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2014

Light gold in colour, this has a rich, mealy yet pretty scent of forest mushrooms, flowers and crushed seeds. The palate is soft, chewy, gourmand and gratifying, full of late-summer allusions. This generous, dense and reverberative mouthful has a gathered force which contrives to suggest freshness despite the rich, layered style. A white Châteauneuf entirely unafraid of its own nature.

Strongly marked by stuck-match reduction and smoky bacon, it's fresh and somehow salty on the nose. Medium- to full-bodied, this is not overly fat or rich, but distinctly mineral. It finishes bright, like quartz glinting in the sun. I love the breadth on the palate, followed by the brisk tightening up on the finish. This is not a typical Châteauneuf; it's not as fat and rich as many, and it's saltier. It's a brilliant wine. Fermented then aged for two years in Jupilles oak barrels with occasional stirring. Not pumped, fined, filtered or racked. Predominantly Grenache Blanc with Clairette, Bourboulenc and Roussanne.