Domaine du Cellier des Cray, La Cuvée des Gueux, Chignin, Savoie, 2016

This wine is made from an 87 year old parcel of Jacquère whose twisted, misshapen vines mean that it has to be worked by horse. It’s pale gold, and has less zesty and appley scents than Apremont and Abymes wines, but with fresh herbal, wildflower notes. The palate is lithe and athletic, its cascade of fruit has spring freshness and a little white almond richness.